Tomaž Humar

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This monographic edition of 208 pages and 209 photographs brings descriptions of Humar´s most important mountaineering ascents.

Introductions to the book were written by Reinhold Messner and Carlos Carsolio, two of Humar's great friends and admirers.

   

About the book

(article with the title "Man from Mars explains self" has appeared on the Jackson Hole Website in 2001 and was written by David Swift)

Since the sport was born, mountain climbing is never without someone somewhere "pushing the limits." The term, a tired cliché in many realms, remains the raison d'etre in world-class alpinism.

Tomaz Humar is the limit pusher of the modern climbing arena. ("Is" in this case is more like "was". More on that in a moment.) Humar is a conceptual artist, an astronaut still fighting gravity.

He picks lines on extremely steep and rapidly shedding mountain faces, routes that are at one level esthetic but at another level are rottenly berzerko exposed. For days at a time he lives on the edge of space and time, taunting a demise of pure and rapid vanishment.

Humar took mountaineering into new frontiers of ignoring danger. He wasn't the only one to tippy-toe on such a narrow edge but he does have the distinction of living to tell about it.

In short, Humar is barely of this planet. His story, like all world-class mountaineers' stories, must be told. So it is, in a new book whose title spins the words "impossible" and "no way".

Humar frankly admits that he's glad he's had to slow down. In fact, it looks like Tomaz Humar is going to live for a long, long time.

Last October 30 Humar broke both legs. He fell nine feet. In his house. Backwards. Down an empty stairwell.

 

When he fell "No Impossible Ways" was nearly ready for the printer. If he didn't know what to write on the jacket flaps, he suddenly got some timely material that included a novel's worth of irony. Like a true hard man, Humar recaps his household accident with a bit of melancholy, more humor, and ample gratefulness that he wasn't hurt worse.

I've read smatterings of No Impossible Ways. (I swiped it from a friend for 24 hours when he wasn't looking.) Humar's prose is peppy, to say the least, and the man is not shy about cutting to the great, deep, vast, ponderable questions about the very nature of existence. Humar is a Slovenian, a man born into a region that produces more good writer-philosophers per capita than any place outside of South America.


Chapters are titled "The Third Eye" and "A Lightness of Being". I'm guessing that Humar is being tongue-in-cheek for he relishes examining the already well-examined absurdities of mountaineering. He's a post-revelatory existential every inch of the way. His climbing proves that.

Existentialism abounds. No Impossible Ways, a coffee table book, barely lists an author credit. There's no table of contents, no index, no page numbers. (I'm guesing 150-200.) The only page approaching frippery is the anointment up front, a preface written by an admirer attesting to the author's innate goodness, as prefaces invariably do. This preface happens to be by Reinhold Messner. If you are not from mountaineering circles, this is the finger of God scribing.

If there are other mountaineering books that don't have a picture of pretty, pretty mountains on the cover, I've never seen one until now. Here's another first: this might be the first coffee table book whose spare, somber jacket suggests it's literally a heavy philosophy book. (Nietzsche is pietzsche!) The cover is a rich, silky-smooth black with not-quite-as-dark lettering and a splotch of blood-red type. Under the jacket, the cloth binding is more black and featurelessness save a lightly embossed title.

"No Impossible Ways" is one of the most beautiful books ever. The layout is sleek, modern, colorful, happy, without a trace of chic. Color reproduction isn't far from having a slide show right under your nose. The choice of photos, the flow, the occasional blockbuster shot intermixed with all that is glorious about life in the mountains, makes "No Impossible Ways" a classic in a field that has no shortage of classics. Visually, this book is the final word on what mountains offer.

More on "No Impossible Ways" when and if it becomes available in the United States.

Joke about Tomaž Humar

To yetis meet and the first one asks the second one:
" Hey buddy, have you heard some Messner guy has been looking for us up here in the mountains for quite a while now?"
The second one answers:
"Yeah I've heard and it's true you know."
The first one asks again:
"How do you know that it's true?"
"What do you mean how?! Humar told me so."

Take a look at the video (Windows Media Avdio/Video file; size 2.422 kB) about Humar's ascent to Daulaghiri, which at the same time was an advertisement for his book.