Nanga Parbat, 8125m, junij 2003 - attempt

expedition members: Tomaž Humar (leader), Anda Perdan, Gregor Županc, Tomo Drolec, Lado Ogrin, Nataša Pergar, Matej Mošnik, Boštjan Repinc, Arne Hodalič, Stipe Božić, Joško Bojić.

In June 2003, Tomaz Humar was supposed to enter a new route in the south face of Nanga Parbat, the most westerly Himalayan eightthousender. Following four unsuccessful acclimatization attempts along the Messner route, which failed mostly because of severe health problems and extremely unfavourable weather conditions, Humar abandoned his plan and returned home together with his eleven-member team without ever entering the planned route.

Contrary to Nepal, where main climbing seasons take place in spring and autumn, summer is the best time for mountaineering ascents in the western, Pakistani part of the Himalayas. Humar encountered extremely bad weather conditions from the very beginning. Temperatures in western Pakistan were extremely high for July, which made the snow and ice on the mountain melt constantly. The number of released avalanches was unusually high and snow along the Messner route (which was to serve as Humar's acclimatization route) was soft to the extent that it sank waist deep and even deeper at the altitude as high as 6.000 m. In addition to high temperatures in the south face there were also more precipitations than usual. Rain and snowfall rendered Humar's progress along the Messner route impossible, and damaged the tents he had set up together with the members of his team several times. In addition to bad weather conditions, members of his team also suffered from severe health problems. Dr. Anda Perdan, the expedition's physician, was not able to treat the repeating stomach problems properly, as the cause of them could not be established for quite some time. It was only when a Pakistani doctor, more familiar with local diseases, called on the expedition and established amoeba as the cause of their problems, that the disease could be treated at least temporarily with a strong dose of antibiotics.

Beneath Nanga Parbat, Humar had to face for the first time the fact that nature is sometimes just too powerful. He doesn't perceive his attempt as a failure: Nanga Parbat's south face remains one of his plans for the future, although he is not willing to discuss any details yet.