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expedition
members: Tomaž Humar (leader),
Anda Perdan, Gregor Županc,
Tomo
Drolec,
Lado Ogrin,
Nataša Pergar, Matej Mošnik,
Boštjan Repinc, Arne Hodalič,
Stipe Božić,
Joško Bojić. |
In June 2003, Tomaz Humar was supposed to enter a new route in
the south face of Nanga Parbat, the most westerly Himalayan eightthousender.
Following four unsuccessful acclimatization attempts along the Messner
route, which failed mostly because of severe health problems and
extremely unfavourable weather conditions, Humar abandoned his plan
and returned home together with his eleven-member team without ever
entering the planned route.
Contrary to Nepal, where main climbing
seasons take place in spring and
autumn, summer is the best time for mountaineering ascents in
the western, Pakistani part of the
Himalayas. Humar encountered extremely
bad weather conditions from the very beginning. Temperatures
in western Pakistan were extremely
high for July, which made the snow
and ice on the mountain melt constantly. The number of released
avalanches was unusually high
and snow along the Messner route
(which was to serve as Humar's acclimatization route) was soft
to the extent that it sank waist
deep and even deeper at the altitude
as high as 6.000 m. In addition to high temperatures in the
south face there were also more precipitations
than usual. Rain and snowfall rendered
Humar's progress along the Messner route impossible, and damaged
the tents he had set up together
with the members of his team several
times. In addition to bad weather conditions, members of his
team also suffered from severe health
problems. Dr. Anda Perdan, the expedition's
physician, was not able to treat the repeating stomach problems
properly, as the cause of
them could not be established for
quite some time. It was only when a Pakistani doctor, more familiar
with local diseases, called on
the expedition and established amoeba
as the cause of their problems, that the disease could be treated
at least temporarily with a strong
dose of antibiotics. Beneath Nanga Parbat, Humar had
to face for the first time the fact that nature is sometimes
just too
powerful. He doesn't perceive his
attempt as a failure: Nanga Parbat's south face remains one
of his plans for the future, although he
is not willing to discuss any details
yet.
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