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| Nanga
Parbat, 8125m, July 2005 |
| photogallery | about Nanga Parbat | expedition members |
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Nanga
Parbat is with 8125 meters
the ninth highest peak in
the Himalayas. It lies in the Pakistan
part of the mountain chain
and is as the most western
peak separated from the rest
of the Himalayan beauties
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It bears the name "The
killer mountain". Before
Hermann Buhl in 1953 reached
its peak 31 people had to die
trying. Catastrophes followed
one another - starting with the
British Mummery expedition in
1895. In the year 1934 a storm
swallowed 4 German Mountaineers
and 6 sherpas, three years later
a snow slide buried a whole base
camp and with it 18 sherpas and
12 mountaineers.
According to statistical data the
lady with the scythe seems to visit
this
mountain very often and that is also
how the Nanga
got its name.
In the mountains lap the brother
of Reinhold Messner also lost
his life, after he tried to climb
it. Till today there are only
three routes that have been successfully
climbed in the Rupal face; |
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Messner's,
otherwise known as German-Italian
route, the Polish-Mexican route,
part of this expedition were also
the famous climbers Carlos Carsolio
in Jerzy Kukuczka, and Schell's
route.
Humar
chose a new route that runs
right in the middle of the face.
This
rout is said to represent one
of the biggest challenges in modern
mountaineering. With its 4700
meters it
is believed to be the highest
face of the world.
It is technically an logistically
very complicated
and not to forget, extremely
dangerous.
It is possible to climb it, only
with lots of experience, outstanding
psychic and psychical condition,
a lot of courage and mostly with
the mountains leave.
"It can be climbed by
one out of thousand," calculates
Messner? Who could it be? |
Two
years ago Tomaž Humar has given up
his climb, because nature's powers
were too great to fight. Since Humar's
health was badly broached and the weather
conditions extremely bad, the expedition,
after 4 unsuccessful attempts to acclimatize
in Messner's route, had to leave the
foothill of Nanga Parbat and went home.
Consequently to the temperatures
in the West Pakistan which were
extremely
high for that time of the year, snow
and ice in the mountains were constantly
melting, the number of the snow slides
on the slopes was unusually high and
the snow above 6.000 meters was so
soft Humar fell in it to the waist
with every step. A big problem represented
also Humar's health problem. The project
ended, but not the dream.
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The purpose is the same. Before the
ascent into the face, Tomaž will acclimatize
in the Messner's
route, together with his co-climber
Aleš Koželj and his cameramen and mountaineering
colleague Stipe Božič.
He will start
climbing at the day of a full moon
or a day or two later. In the
face he will be facing falling
seracs, stones, snow slides and orientation
problems, climbing at night with
no possibility to rest, sleeping
in a sleeping bag created especially
for him. Details are unknown,
even to the climber. |
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