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the
peak was reached by: Tomaž Humar |
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expedition
members: Tomaž Humar (vodja), Joško
Bojić, Stipe Božić, Damjan
Kočar, Matej Mejovšek |
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he
is the first European to climb
soloone of the most difficult
technical routes in the world
in fifteen days, Reticent Wall
VI., 5.9, A5 |
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850 m |
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This was Humar's first encounter
with one of the American granite
'big walls'. |
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Although he had no previous
experience with this type of
stone, he started off with the
biggest challenge Yosemite Valley
had to offer - the Reticent Wall
of El Capitan. |
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He chose his equipment or manufactured
it himself according to experience
from the Slovene Alps. He started
on the vertical wall with three
heavy bags of equipment, which
he carried with him throughout
the ascent. |
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It took him fifteen days of
solo climbing to become the first
non-American who conquered the
Reticent Wall, one of the most
difficult technical routes in
the world. |
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He stood on the peak of El
Capitan on October 26, 1998. |
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A film was made about his ascent
of the Reticent Wall, which received
the Genziana d'Argento award
for the best mountaineering film
at the international mountain
film festival in Trento. |
"You'll fly in the first pitch, man!Take a plane and go home!"
These were the first words of 'encouragement'
I heard from the local climbers when I sought some information,
anything really, about the infamous route called the Reticent
Wall. Apparently they thought I wasn't all there; my first time
in the valley and I want to solo the toughest route.

On the ledge before the 'lucky 13' pitch, after two weeks on the
wall, I experience a snow-storm, not an everyday occurrence in
this part of California. I take the day off, to rest and thoroughly
sort out the gear. The next morning is cool and sunny, and at about
eight I start on the pitch with the highest grade on El Cap - A5.
The word on this pitch is: "If you fall, you'll die - for
sure!" That should be clear also to non-experts. I know I
can climb it, but I'm still scared. The slightest mistake can be
fatal.
I tackle the loose flakes,
which remind me of Rzenik back home, with the copper-heads, which
I find better than the traditional sawed-off angle-pitons. Next
follows wedging the smallest copper-heads into some sort of a scaly
black gap, and then hooking up to the next unstable flake. I'm
not sure who's holding whom, me the flake or vice versa, but forty
meters below there's a ledge where I'd first break, and another
forty meters lower a jagged ramp where I'd shatter. I close my
eyes to drive the black scenarios out of my mind, when I suddenly
hear: "Pffffft!" I can almost smell the surge of adrenaline,
and with my eyes still closed I start cursing: "What the hell!
You let me come this far, you bastard, just to kill me now! "
No fair, no fair, keeps flashing through my mind, before I look
up and see, as in a dream, Stipe. Holding an open can in his hand
he says coolly: "Time for a beer, man!"
He's swinging from two ropes over a thousand-meter drop to get
a few good shots. "You scared the hell out of me, Stipe!"< He says off-handedly, as though he's just sauntered in from the beach: "Time for a photo - say cheese!"
"Stipe, get out of my face. If I take a fall nowthere won't be any more pictures!"
"Oh, come on, Joža, you'll like it later, you'll see!"

Abstract from the book by Tomaž Humar, No Impossible Ways,
2001, Mobitel d.d., Ljubljana |