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the
peak was reached by: Tomaž
Humar -
solo from the last camp |
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expedition
members: Tone
Škarja (leader), Stipe
Božič, Carlos Carsolio,
Viki Grošelj,
Tomaž Humar, Davo in Drejc
Karničar, dr. Damijan Meško,
Janko Oprešnik |
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north
face, after three days at
an altitude over 7500 m he
ascends the French Route alone
and reaches the summit |
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3900 m |
| |
|
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The only classical Himalayan
expedition Humar took part
in and his first 8000 m peak. |
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Among the members of the
expedition were Carlos Carsolio
from Mexico and Stipe Božić
from Croatia, who became Tomaž's
teachers, co-climbers and
his close friends. |
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During the ascent he spent
his first night at the so-called "death's
door"; with sirdar Arjun
at the altitude of 7.500 m.
The night passed without any
difficulties. |
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Despite being forbidden
to do so by the expedition
leader, he continued by himself
toward the peak in the morning,
and on May 6, 1995, stood
alone at the altitude of 8091
m. His faith had never left
him and he was rewarded in
the end. The Himalayas liked
him |
Annapurna, or the "Bountiful Harvest," was for
me - thanks particularly to our
leader Tone Škarja - an unexpected
opportunity which I could not let slip by. It
was the only classic Himalayan expedition
I had the chance of experiencing.
I still believe one should first
try everything, including attaching
fixed lines, setting up camps, the
Sherpas... There is no surviving
without that in alpine-style climbing, which does
not make allowances for any mistakes.

I keep telling myself that the storm can't last forever, and
continue wading through the deep snow until five p.m., bearing
right in the absolute white blindness. I know I'll never find
Camp 4 again if the fog doesn't lift by nightfall. The thunderous
cold has turned me into a grinding robot who's crossed the boundary
between life and death.
It was an incredible
sensation, completely indescribable. I was fully aware of the
situation; I knew I would survive and I had no fear. He was with
me because I had absolute faith in Him.
At five I reach the bottom of the summit couloir, which is so
filled with snow that I can't even make out its outlines. I call
base, where they've been expecting me since morning. When they
find out I'm just below the summit, they're all primarily concerned
about my health.
The deep snow, the storm, the altitude
and the cold have all taken their toll; I'm exhausted, and I still
have more than two hours to the summit. When I manage to clamber
on all fours to the top of the couloir, the snow is so deep I
decide to bear left, where there are more rocks. Gulping for air,
I end up in a not too steep rock groove from where I somehow pull
myself to just below the summit cornice. Toward the west, next
to some isolated, V-shaped rocks, Dhaulagiri shines redly in the
setting sun. Around seven I turn on my radio and yell into it:
"Camp base, do you read me, this is awesome,it's just awesome!"
I hear the base buzz with excitement,
then Tone's voice:
"What's awesome, where are you,how are
you feeling?"
"Man, what a sunset ... this is awesome!"
In
tears, I try to describe my position.
Next I speak to Damjan and then proceed
to the summit, where nightfall and
silence enshroud me.
I take pictures of my surroundings.
I plunk down in the snow for a few
moments and try to calm down. There's
no time for anything but to beat a
retreat back into life. It becomes
dreadfully cold, so cold that I feel
a sharp pain in the back of my neck.
I start literally running back down
in twenty or more meter bursts, then
I throw myself into the snow and breathe,
breathe, then get up again ...

Abstract from the book by Tomaž Humar, No
Impossible Ways, 2001, Mobitel
d.d., Ljubljana |